Anne & Jean-François Ganevat ‘Les Clos’ 2020

Over the past decade, the world’s love affair with the idiosyncratic wines of the Jura has brought unprecedented attention to this remote region of eastern France. And as a result, the Jura’s top growers have become icons for the ancient pedigree, singular character and sheer brilliance of their wines. And no other Jura vigneron’s star has risen faster than that of Jean-François Ganevat. Through the diversity, originality and sheer brilliance of his wines, he’s drawn comparison to the likes of Coche, Jayer and Dagueneau as a producer whose wines transcend their appellations. Even more startling is the range of wines he makes: more than forty cuvées, each individual in character but highly consistent in quality. Such an achievement can be explained only by the lengths to which Ganevat is willing to go. What other grower destems individual grapes by hand with scissors, to make certain that each berry is intact? Who else farms forty distinct plots spread over only 8.5 hectares and then vinifies them separately, giving each their own highly individualized élévage? It doesn’t end there. To fully express each terroir, Jean-François has planted 45 different ancient indigenous grapes among the appellation-approved varieties. And he uses eight people including himself—one person per hectare—to ensure that the labor-intensive biodynamic farming of each site
is done perfectly.